Gunks 2003
Oh baby, the Gunks.  What an awesome place.  And what a bummer that I wasn't a climber when I lived in the city for so many years.  Bang head on wall. 

This year, on family vacation, My helmet and I had the chance to scuttle off for three days at the Gunks.  A fourth day was scheduled, but my partner and I chickened out under threat of nasty weather and ended up in the gym - also fun.  Anyway, one step at a time. 
We touched down at JFK on Saturday evening, July 5.  On Monday morning at 7:00 a.m., my jetlag, my helmet and I shuffled aboard the bus at Port Authority (talk about culture shock!), bound for New Paltz. 

My helmet is a ferocious snob, and refused point blank to be photographed flying coach or riding the bus.  (Actually, I meant to stage the shots and then forgot - dammit!)

At the New Paltz station, Mike Rawdon (of gunks.com renown) was waiting, and we were off to the Near Trapps.

Mike is a chemist by profession, with a fine, dry sense of humor and broad knowledge of climbing and the Gunks area.  His trademark is lycra tights in patterns to make even the color blind beg for mercy, but for our outing the heat and humidity forced him to make do with shorts and a tie-dyed shirt.  My extra layer of SPF 50 handled it nicely.
Mike was obviously feeling fine, and headed right for Roseland (5.9) for our next venture, leading the single pitch in short order. 

I followed, and had a heck of a time getting my right foot to stick on the slick right-hand wall of the upper corner.  A little body tension did the job (plus a touch of cursing - when a small slip almost launched me).  The crux traverse felt pumpy, but not too bad - pulling plastic does help.

Cool route.  Hope to get back and lead it one day.  Preferrably a nice, cool, high-friction spring or fall day.
What I didn't know, however, is that if you let Mike find some momentum, he turns into the Energizer Bunny on speed.  Before I'd even got my water bottle back in my pack, he was tying in for a run on Transcontinental Nailway (also known as "Transcon", 5.10b).  It was a treat to watch him finding excellent gear, even on the opening problem, where offset nuts set into the thin crack in the ramp gave solid protection.  Here's Mike on a nice stance - past the crux and looking relaxed.

With the rope running up to give me confidence, I had a great time following this pitch.  Never mind the whimpering.
Above is the man himself, leading off on the first pitch of Yellow Ridge (5.7), our first route of the day.  I got the second pitch, with it's neat little overhang.  We were off to a good start.
Next on Mike's deathmarch - I mean playlist - was Birdland (5.8+), and we changed order to give me the first pitch, since I hadn't had a lead in a while (and because Mike's a nice guy and it's a wonderful piece of rock).

A member of a large party climbing next to us on Farewell to Arms agreed to take some shots with my camera, so there's a fun sequence of me on the route, and I'll indulge myself and put in a few of them.

Here I am on the left, at the first good stance.  Looks like I might just be having fun, don't it?  You can tell by the dorky grin.
Clipping one of the many fixed pins...
... Fiddling in a piece before the crux...
... And heaving a big sigh of relief before addressing the easier ground above.
Mike continued with a sweet lead of the second pitch (shown at left), and we finished off the day with the two pitches of Disneyland (5.6).

I suspect Mike could easily have climbed more, but I was fading fast from heat and jetlag.  So much so that I actually dropped a piece on Disneyland.  (God, how embarrasing!)  Mike inspected it and graciously declined my offer of replacement.  Thanks, man - class act.

We packed it up and headed for the Guilded Otter, my first visit to the fabled scene of much gunks.com debauchery.

The beer was most excellent, as was the food and the company. 

Letching after pretty waitresses should be part of every climbing outing.  (Don't worry Mrs. Mike - it was just me.  I swear.)

Even scorn from my helmet at being forced to endure another bus ride home couldn't override the pleasure of such a great day. 

Thanks much, Mike!!

And I was already dreaming about more to come.
Part I - A Day with Mike Rawdon